Installing an SLP HL 4500+ Altitude kit with Magnum force weights & power pucks
Why do I want this clutch kit and what am I hoping to accomplish with this service?
A smoother transition from the take-off with less clanking sound.
Better engagement to help with the rock crawling and technical rides.
Higher RPM’s throughout the power band, while the clutch is going to full open – basically getting back the RPM’s it lost due to less horsepower from our high elevation.
To help make up for my installation of heavier tires and bead lock wheels. This is rotating weight, which is the biggest power loss of them all, approximately 64 pounds heavier than my stock wheels and bighorn tires.
Now I want to tell you my understanding of clutch kits, and why they are needed. You always hear the answer as you need smoother shifting, quicker engagement and you need to make up for the bigger tires installed. This is all fine and dandy, but not very good in the explanation department.
Years ago, I used to own a boat. It was a 1994 SeaSwirl 19’ with a 5.8L fuel-injected engine. It ran really well, and we would go boating in the lakes mostly up in the mountains of Utah with high elevations.
When I would be boating around Jordanelle, Starvation and Flaming Gorge reservoirs, the boat would travel about 49 MPH top speed. When I went boating down to Lake Powell, at approximately 2000 feet elevation, the boat would travel 55 MPH top speed. This is a little more than a 10% loss at a higher elevation.
When I would hit the higher lakes and pull skiers, I would need to take the prop pitch from a 21 to a 19 pitch. The result would give me the lower end power to pull skiers up, but it would lose some top-end speed. It was always more important to have the lower end power and not as much top speed for the type of boating we were enjoying.
What has this got to do with our UTV’s and the clutch kit? A lot!
The first thing in the clutch kit is the altitude kit – this is going to be like changing the pitch of your prop to get you the power where you need it the most. This will help your side x side to perform like you were at a lower elevation because your UTV has lost at least 10% power in the higher elevation, and the stock clutching is set up for a lower elevation condition.
This is more relevant with the non-turbo engines – the high horsepower turbo engines have overcome some of the loss of power, so your clutching can engage quickly and keep engaged better, but the turbo units can still benefit greatly with this change.
With a loss of horsepower, your clutch will not be engaging as fast and strong, so this is where the change of springs and weights come into effect. The stronger secondary and primary springs will help keep the clutch engaged and not slip the belt as much.
The aftermarket weights are usually set up heavier than stock to keep the heavier springs running at the optimal RPM range. You will still have the clutch closed for idle, so it is not trying to turn the secondary and making it hard to shift into gear.
If you are a sand dune rider like me, it is really important to have your RPM’s at a higher level to keep the horsepower there to power you out of areas that can get you in trouble. If you were to not have enough power, you might not get through the big bowls and hills.
They do make a clutch kit just for sand dune riding for the drivers that only hit the sand dunes. It will run your RPM’s much higher to keep as much horsepower as possible while riding the sand dunes. Sand dunes absolutely rob horsepower, so I would only use this type kit for the 100% sand dune drivers.
I will take you through the journey of – before, during, and what I experience after installing the complete SLP clutch kit and power puck system.
Here at UTV Service can perform all your CVT clutch needs and service just give us a call or visit us at www.utvservice.com
Until we ride again.
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